braking problem -

Never again
Registered: 02/16/09
Posts: 233

10/28/09 at 12:20 AM

#16

well i got my car started right and when i went to take a drive i realized that my brakes were really hard to push down. so i checked my fluid it was good so than i realized that the vacumm line wasnt connected so i reconnected the line and tried the brakes again so that didnt help so i bleed my brakes once i did the brake pedal went down than after i took my foot of it i just returned the same it was really hard to push down.

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Never again
Registered: 02/16/09
Posts: 233

10/31/09 at 03:07 PM

#17

please i still need help

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wrencher
Registered: 05/02/09
Posts: 922

10/31/09 at 03:13 PM

#18

well i stated before that the rear breaks were probably shot and everyone shot me down but heres why my theory is this

when you hit the breaks the first to activate is the front breaks am i not correct?

your rear breaks are a secondary breaking system to keep your car from flipping forward they activate after your front breaks do

so if your rear breaks are bad usually your pedal will feel stiff because when you hit the breaks the only breaks activating correctly is the front breaks

honestly i will say go ahead replace the breaks in your car and if it doesnt fix it either your break booster is bad or you have a faulty break line somwhere

but thats just my opinion take it or leave it

*edit*

i decided to search a few sites and came across this procedure you can try

it seemed pretty similar to your issue now either it could be a clogged brake line somewhere which can be a pain in the ass to find or it could be the pads going bad which ive already gone over with you but if you wanna test the booster or check valve here you go

Run the engine for a few moments, then turn the key off. Once the engine dies, press the brake pedal a few times. You should hear a hissing noise each time you press the pedal. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. The pedal should move and get softer. If none of this occurs, verify that the booster has a vacuum source. If the booster has a vacuum source, and still does not boost the pedal effort, the booster is more than likely bad. One other alternative would be a bad check valve. Simply remove the valve and blow into it. It should blow easily in one direction, and not at all in the other.

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cars:
1991 acura legend

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I_Drive_DSM

Munchin' Dem Tacos
Registered: 02/22/07
Posts: 1,523

10/31/09 at 03:28 PM

#19

I have to go with Aaron (partsguy) on this. The brakes rely on your booster to be in good working order and to have vacuum in the system. Looking at the rear of the car isn't going to solve you brake problem. If anything the only thing you should be looking at around the rear is brake line condition and if there is any kinks in the lines. Replacing your brakes isn't going to solve the braking problem itself and is just going to give you new brake pads with the same problem.

There is no such thing as one end of the car's brakes activating before the other. I once upon a time thought that too but it's not the case. You wouldn't be able to control the car if something like that was happening. Think of when you ride a bicycle with brakes separate. Apply the fronts and then the rear and see what happens. The same would happen to a car, just on a larger scale and it would potentially cause your car to crash. Also when you think about it it's the reason why there is a constant state of brake fluid traveling through the system. Just like with engine coolant.

What you will likely end up having to do is first check all the conditions of all the hoses. Ensure they are in good working order and no kinks exists. Then check that the booster is operating correctly. Finally - and what might actually solve the problem - you might end up having to flush out your brake lines. Doing everything with a partner will probably help out a lot.

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wrencher
Registered: 05/02/09
Posts: 922

10/31/09 at 03:33 PM

#20

Quote:

Originally Posted by I_Drive_DSM
I have to go with Aaron (partsguy) on this. The brakes rely on your booster to be in good working order and to have vacuum in the system. Looking at the rear of the car isn't going to solve you brake problem. If anything the only thing you should be looking at around the rear is brake line condition and if there is any kinks in the lines. Replacing your brakes isn't going to solve the braking problem itself and is just going to give you new brake pads with the same problem.

well i state replacing pads only because ive had the same issue as his a few times in a few differenct cars and when i replaced the rear pads and the front pads my break pedal stopped feeling stiff

but like i said before as well to check for clogs in the lines and test the booster concidering he did check the man vac line and it was plugged in

__________________
with every shift is a new step into life
(sincerely yours only the post whore)

cars:
1991 acura legend

1993 eagle talon panda
(mods) - rear window wiper and squirter

Never again
Registered: 02/16/09
Posts: 233

10/31/09 at 05:03 PM

#21

well i was wondering is there any relays that go to the brake booster. also how do i check it for kinks

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i like my motors like i like my girls 37 not 63 lol

wrencher
Registered: 05/02/09
Posts: 922

10/31/09 at 05:30 PM

#22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junior_dsm

well i was wondering is there any relays that go to the brake booster. also how do i check it for kinks

a brake booster isnt electronic so i wouldnt think there would be one

your best bet is check for clogs in the lines dude

__________________
with every shift is a new step into life
(sincerely yours only the post whore)

cars:
1991 acura legend

1993 eagle talon panda
(mods) - rear window wiper and squirter

Never again
Registered: 02/16/09
Posts: 233

10/31/09 at 06:44 PM

#23

kinks-wont bleed brakes( and i was able to bleed brakes)
valve-need pice of check valve vacuum line is connecter
air in brakes lines would be spoungy
not sre about rear pads
e brakes work

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i like my motors like i like my girls 37 not 63 lol

wrencher
Registered: 05/02/09
Posts: 922

10/31/09 at 06:50 PM

#24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junior_dsm
kinks-wont bleed brakes( and i was able to bleed brakes)
valve-need pice of check valve vacuum line is connecter
air in brakes lines would be spoungy
not sre about rear pads
e brakes work

you can still bleed brakes with a kink or a clog in the lines but it will just harden back up when pressure is recooped in the system

as for price of a check valve look it up on your local auto parts store

__________________
with every shift is a new step into life
(sincerely yours only the post whore)

cars:
1991 acura legend

1993 eagle talon panda
(mods) - rear window wiper and squirter

Mischif

1eights god
Registered: 09/05/07
Posts: 948

10/31/09 at 08:05 PM

#25

So its either a kink or your brake booster. How about the pushrod thats connected to the pedal getting bent...unlikely but possible. And the front and rear brakes activate at the same time, just the force is split between them..more in the front than in the back. If its a kink i would think it would be between the master cylinder and the spliter thing. If it was a kink in just one of the lines after the spliter i would think the pedal would still be normal just one caliper would be not working properly.

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I_Drive_DSM

Munchin' Dem Tacos
Registered: 02/22/07
Posts: 1,523

11/01/09 at 10:04 PM

#26

You're pretty right on. If you have a kink in just one line then you're likely not going to feel any difference in brake pedal travel or movement. You would however feel a pull under braking, especially if it's in the front. If it's in the rear you'd feel it too, but with the solid rear axle assembly on the 1G I think it would be hard to determine exactly where it would be coming from (I know that sounds silly, but it would pull the whole rear end).

Yeah you can still bleed brakes even with a kink in them. It's basically like having a knotted up water hose but not completed shut off. Fluid will go through there just not with as much pressure (hence why a kink will cause a problem because it won't create enough pressure to push the caliper piston).

The only reason why I could think that possibly it might be a good idea to replace pads is simply because when you compress the caliper piston into the caliper you'll press the fluid, put in new pads which will reduce the distance between the brake and the rotor, but even if that does solve the problem when the brake starts wearing down you'll be back at square one.

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wrencher
Registered: 05/02/09
Posts: 922

11/02/09 at 07:04 AM

#27

Quote:

Originally Posted by I_Drive_DSM
You're pretty right on. If you have a kink in just one line then you're likely not going to feel any difference in brake pedal travel or movement. You would however feel a pull under braking, especially if it's in the front. If it's in the rear you'd feel it too, but with the solid rear axle assembly on the 1G I think it would be hard to determine exactly where it would be coming from (I know that sounds silly, but it would pull the whole rear end).

listen to him junior he knows what hes talkin about

__________________
with every shift is a new step into life
(sincerely yours only the post whore)

cars:
1991 acura legend

1993 eagle talon panda
(mods) - rear window wiper and squirter

Never again
Registered: 02/16/09
Posts: 233

11/02/09 at 08:09 PM

#28

well thanks for the info im going to try it out this weekend. what happens if everythings still the same than what could it be

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i like my motors like i like my girls 37 not 63 lol

wrencher
Registered: 05/02/09
Posts: 922

11/03/09 at 03:07 AM

#29

well if u try everything we told u it shouldnt be happening anymore if it does then im at a stump

__________________
with every shift is a new step into life
(sincerely yours only the post whore)

cars:
1991 acura legend

1993 eagle talon panda
(mods) - rear window wiper and squirter

Never again
Registered: 02/16/09
Posts: 233

11/06/09 at 07:43 PM